Painted monasteries of Bucovina

The way from Maramures to Bucovina was supposed to last a few hours and as a matter of fact we did not know where we were heading to. The plan was to get as possible to the area where the painted monasteries were located, but we did not really knew where it was. In addition, because of Nina, we could not drive in infinity. When it was becoming really late and Nina was becoming really tired, we booked some hotel, which was shown as "nearby". However when we got an exact address it turned out that we would need to drive back for 1,5h! It was just impossible, we booked then another place bearing in mind that maybe we would need to pay for both.

When we arrived to our new place - Casa Elvira - it was already very late. Luckily the lovely owner prepared a small dinner for us. The place was lovely, room was spacious and we had beautiful views when we woke up. We booked this place only for one night, however the reason behind was that we were already very late, we were tired, we did not really have a plan for the next days. But we made a plan in the morning and we concluded this guesthouse was in the middle of everything and we very much wanted to stay at least one more night in this beautiful setting. Unfortunately our room was already booked for the next night, but the owner found another - last one free. Smaller, but it did not matter. After we moved our luggage, we could finally start sightseeing.

Bucovina is famous worldwide for beautiful and unique in the world painted monasteries being also considered masterpieces of Byzantine art. Eight of them are on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The exterior walls of these Orthodox monasteries were decorated mostly around 15 and 16 century with frescoes depicting portraits of saints and scenes from the Bible. Through these frescoes the illiterate peasants could learn about God. Today thousands of pilgrims - mostly from Romania, as well as tourists from all over the world, come to visit this one of a kind monasteries.

 The first monastery we visited was Moldovita. It was first built in the 15th century and then rebuilt in the 16th. I was amazed from the first moment I saw it. It was totally extraordinary and breathtaking. It was incredible to believe that a few centuries ago, such distinctive and exquisite decorations were made. There were indeed several tourists visiting this place, many of them from outside Romania. The monasteries had beautiful paintings on its external walls, but also inside.

Next monastery on our list was Sucevita, which was founded at the end of the sixteenth century and which frescoes were painted by local artist at the beginning of the seventeenth. Surrounded by high, defensive walls, unfortunately for us some restorative works were ongoing and thus we couldn't fully admire the frescoes. It was a shame as this monastery has the largest number of painted images, among which the most famous - the Ladder to Paradise - a masterpiece of the Romanian medieval painting.

Another place we visited was Arbore Monastery. It was built in 1503 by a nobleman Luca Arbore, it was meant to be a family chapel. The paintings were completed forty years later and Luca Arbore never saw it, as he was killed in the meantime. Unlike other places it had no belfry towers, because it was not built by a prince. Also unlike other places it was completely empty at that time, but also the frescoes were much less visible.

 

On the way between monasteries we drive a lot through the Bucovina mountains admiring picturesque views.

We made a short stop over at the Humor Monastery. It was rather small, but with well kept frescoes.

The last place we headed to on that day was Voronet Monastery. Many consider it the most famous of all the painted monasteries. Some even call it "the Sistine Chapel of the Easte". It was constructed at the end of the 15th century by Stephen the Great to celebrate a victory over the Ottoman army. Although I spent the entire day admiring the monasteries and their frescoes, I have to admit this one was really special. The frescoes were in the great condition (probably also because it was renovated in 2011), colors were vivid, but the predominant color was blue, which even got a special name "Voronet blue". The most famous fresco is the Last Judgement, which by many is considered the most exquisite of all the Bucovina frescoes. Other frescoes depict Genesis scenes and the Tree of Jesus. As it was our last place to see on that, we did not rush home. We were admiring the frescoes in the light of setting sun.

 

We spent the evening in our guesthouse. It had great infrastructure for children. On that morning we also ordered a dinner for the evening.

In the morning we enjoyed a great view from our balcony. We loved Bucovina very much, we did not want to leave it. Beautiful views, spectacular monasteries and a great guesthouse in which we spent a very good time. In fact, we regretted we already booked a place in Iasi - we would have loved to stay one more day in this magical land, which Bucovina is. But since an apartment was already awaiting us in Iasi, we did not have much choice but leave.
 

On the way to Iasi, we visited last monasteries. In Suceava we visited Saint George's Churcg/Saint John the New Monastery. The exterior frescoes were not very well visible. Unfortunately majority of them lost their colors with time and rain. The Saint Geroge's Church hosts the relics of Saint John the New, brought to Moldavia at the beginning of the 15th century.

 

 

The very last place we were about to visit was Probota Monastery. It was the first monastery in Moldavia to have external frescoes painted. Upon arrival we noticed that this place was in a total renovation. The entire monastery was covered with scaffoldings. We could see zero of apparently beautiful paintings. But once we were here, we wanted at least to see the interiors. Once we were inside, it started to rain very badly. It was impossible to go out. We were trying then to have a conversation with a nun. She had to feel very lonely here. Not only the place was quite remote and rather far from all other monasteries, but I imagine not many tourist come here since the renovation was ongoing. After around 20 minutes, we could slowly head to the car, but before we still lighted a candle for a happiness.