Initially I was quite excited that we will get to Bukhara through the desert. I thought we would see "something else". Something else being the desert. After we left Khiva and the landscape has changed to the "deserty" one I was done with "something else" after 15 minutes. But at that point we didn't really have a choice. We didn't have much choice before either. The train leaving to Samarkanda was not very convenient for us (timewise) and there were no flights to Bukhara or Samarkanda. Actually a few hours drive wasn't a problem for me at all. In the past I traveled in much worse conditions, such as a 17 hours drive on non existing roads in a "local bus" among bags of rice in the Northern Laos and I was fine ;-) I was just a bit worried how my little 1,5 year old daughter will manage. The drive lasted 6h and she made it :-) partly sleeping, partly we had to entertain her, but she was fine :)
Our hotel was located in Bukhara's Old Town and we had to cross a control check so our driver could leave us in front of the hotel. The As Salam hotel was different than those we stayed in so far. It was a family run hotel where we were welcomed every day with a smile and we sincerely felt like if we were visiting our relatives. We felt at home :)
We arrived to Bukhara in the early evening, so we still had some time to visit the closest neighborhood. Our hotel was located just next to the Lyab-i Hauz Square, so it was the place where we first headed. As Lyab-i Hauz means in Persian "by the pond", in the middle of square there's a large artificial pond and on its both sides - Nodir Devon Begi Madrassa and Nodir Devon Begi Khanaka (being a Sufi hospice and monastery) - both buildings were built in the seventeenth century. I was particularly amazed by the khanaka with its beautifully decorated mosaic portal - it is one of the very few examples in Islamic architecture depicting animals and not just geometric shapes and verses.
We went for a dinner to the restaurant "Old Bukhara". Luckily there was much more choice (especially vegetarian one) than in Khiva. Plus the interior was quite interesting.
We started the next day slowly. We slept quite long and went for the sightseeing only after 11. The previous day was quite tiring plus we were supposed to stay more than two days in here, so we knew there's no need to rush. After a delicious breakfast, we went out to discover this Uzbekistan's "holiest" city. In fact, Bukhara is one of the world's seven holy cities of Islam. It was also a very important religious site in the past (at some point event the most important in the world), with over 350 mosques and 80 madrasahs. But Bukhara - apart from being a religious centre - was also an important commercial centre and the Silk Road stop-off. Today there are over 140 architectural monuments in the city, thanks to which Bukhara was listed as the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The weather wasn't amazing, but at least it was much warmer than in Khiva. It was actually quite ok, we just missed the sun. The first place we headed to was Bukhara's main attraction - Pol-I Kalyan Complex comprising Kalon Mosque with its Kalon Minaret and Mir-i Arab Medressa. Located on the same square, both buildings face each other. The most famous structure in the city is the Kalon Minaret, which is the oldest of these three buildings. This symbol of Bukhara comes from the 12th century and was never destroyed - even by Genghis Khan who conquered the city.
Kalyan Mosque is Bukhara's most important mosque and was the second largest mosque in Uzbekistan (capable to hold up to twelve thousands people at a time). On the opposite site of the mosque there's Mir-i Arab Madrasah. As it is still a functioning Islamic school, we couldn't enter it and visit its interiors.
Our hotel was located in Bukhara's Old Town and we had to cross a control check so our driver could leave us in front of the hotel. The As Salam hotel was different than those we stayed in so far. It was a family run hotel where we were welcomed every day with a smile and we sincerely felt like if we were visiting our relatives. We felt at home :)
We arrived to Bukhara in the early evening, so we still had some time to visit the closest neighborhood. Our hotel was located just next to the Lyab-i Hauz Square, so it was the place where we first headed. As Lyab-i Hauz means in Persian "by the pond", in the middle of square there's a large artificial pond and on its both sides - Nodir Devon Begi Madrassa and Nodir Devon Begi Khanaka (being a Sufi hospice and monastery) - both buildings were built in the seventeenth century. I was particularly amazed by the khanaka with its beautifully decorated mosaic portal - it is one of the very few examples in Islamic architecture depicting animals and not just geometric shapes and verses.
We went for a dinner to the restaurant "Old Bukhara". Luckily there was much more choice (especially vegetarian one) than in Khiva. Plus the interior was quite interesting.
We started the next day slowly. We slept quite long and went for the sightseeing only after 11. The previous day was quite tiring plus we were supposed to stay more than two days in here, so we knew there's no need to rush. After a delicious breakfast, we went out to discover this Uzbekistan's "holiest" city. In fact, Bukhara is one of the world's seven holy cities of Islam. It was also a very important religious site in the past (at some point event the most important in the world), with over 350 mosques and 80 madrasahs. But Bukhara - apart from being a religious centre - was also an important commercial centre and the Silk Road stop-off. Today there are over 140 architectural monuments in the city, thanks to which Bukhara was listed as the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The weather wasn't amazing, but at least it was much warmer than in Khiva. It was actually quite ok, we just missed the sun. The first place we headed to was Bukhara's main attraction - Pol-I Kalyan Complex comprising Kalon Mosque with its Kalon Minaret and Mir-i Arab Medressa. Located on the same square, both buildings face each other. The most famous structure in the city is the Kalon Minaret, which is the oldest of these three buildings. This symbol of Bukhara comes from the 12th century and was never destroyed - even by Genghis Khan who conquered the city.
Kalyan Mosque is Bukhara's most important mosque and was the second largest mosque in Uzbekistan (capable to hold up to twelve thousands people at a time). On the opposite site of the mosque there's Mir-i Arab Madrasah. As it is still a functioning Islamic school, we couldn't enter it and visit its interiors.
There were many tourists on the square, but - as in Khiva - mostly
locals. Still, their number wasn't huge, it didn't make visiting these
places uncomfortable. I was amazed by the beauty of this complex, stunning mosaics and the turquoise domes.
Just a few minutes away from the Pol-I Kalyan Complex there's located the Ark Fortress, which until 1920 served as Bukhara's rulers main residence. A beautiful mosque, a courtyard with coronation trone and a museum (not very interesting) are Ark's main attractions.
After leaving the Arch, we headed to building across - the 18th century Mosque Bolo Hauz, which was emirs' official place of worship. Its outside wooden ceiling was intrinsically decorated like those in Khiva. It turned out to be my favourite place in Bukhara. Wonderful structure made of 20 wooden, beautifully carved pillars holding the ceiling was truly unique and different in comparison to what I saw so far - in Uzbekistan and also elsewhere.
The last place we visited was the Ismail Samani Mausoleum, which is one of the oldest buildings in Bukhara located in Samanid Park, just a few minutes walk from the Bolo Hauz Mosque. It was built at the end of 10th century and it's the oldest Islamic architectural monument in Central Asia
On the way back to the hotel we passed by the old trading domes of Bukhara, once being a bazaar, currently holding souvenir shops.
The next morning finally welcomed us with the sun! I absolutely wanted to use this opportunity and take some photos in a good light. At 9AM the Pol-I Kalyan Complex was nearly empty, so we could truly enjoy this splendid place and obviously take some photos without tourists in the background ;-)
Around 11AM we came back to the hotel, as we were supposed to meet our driver and a guide with whom we were about to see a few sites outside Bukhara (this excursion costed us 130 000 soms). Though he wasn't a professional guide, he was very knowledgeable and his English was excellent. Not only he told us about the places we were visiting, but we had a great conversation with him about life in Uzbekistan, its politics and customs.
The first one was the summer palace of Bukhara's Emirs. The current construction of the palace is actually quite recent, as it was built at the beginning of the 20th century, though the first summer palace was built in the 19th century, but nothing remained of that - apart from the name Sitora-i Mokhi-Khossa meaning “A Star like the Moon”. The name was given on behalf of Emir's beloved wife who died in childbirth and whose beauty Emir was always comparing to the moon.
The palace is a combination of styles - a bit oriental, a bit European architecture, a bit kitschy, but still somehow impressive. The interiors were particularly interesting, decorated in a traditional Bukharan style, each room representing different design. The Emir was certainly not saving money on his summer place - Venetian mirrors, Russian furniture, German tiles for fireplace and ... a chandelier from Poland made this place really spectacular. Not to mention the stunning White Hall and a collection of porcelain collected by the Emir.
Next place on our agenda was of Mausoleum of Bakhautdin Naqsband. Bakhautdin Naqsband was a great theologian of the 14th century, founder of the Sufi Order and the spiritual teacher of Amir Temur. He also pilgrimed 32 time to Mekka. His mausoleum is one of the most important Muslim shrines and every self-respecting Muslim knows this name. It is also considered a Central Asia Mekka, and muslims from many different countries come here to pray and ask for their wishes. Also during our visit this place was full of pilgrims.
We
finished our excursion in the beautiful Char Minar, which was a
gatehouse of a former madrassa. Though quite close to the centre of
Bukhara, it was completely empty. Nobody apart from us. Our driver told
us that many tourists cannot find it.
Upon arrival we went for a quick lunch and then we spent our last afternoon in Bukhara by peacefully wandering on the streets of this beautiful city, by discovering new hidden gems and returning to the gems we already knew, and by capturing some of the normal life of the inhabitants of Bukhara.
I loved Bukhara. Its size was perfect - not too small and not too overwhelming, ideal for a 2-3 days stay without need to hurry and to walk too much. I loved the fact that its Old Town remained so well preserved throughout the ages with its stunning architecture, mud brick buildings, mosques, madrassahs and bazaar. And finally I loved the people - starting from our lovely hosts from the hotel, through the guide and all the random friendly and smiling Uzbeks we met throughout our stay in Bukhara.
I loved Bukhara. Its size was perfect - not too small and not too overwhelming, ideal for a 2-3 days stay without need to hurry and to walk too much. I loved the fact that its Old Town remained so well preserved throughout the ages with its stunning architecture, mud brick buildings, mosques, madrassahs and bazaar. And finally I loved the people - starting from our lovely hosts from the hotel, through the guide and all the random friendly and smiling Uzbeks we met throughout our stay in Bukhara.
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